How to Weld With a MIG Welder With Pulse Control
The Voice: Hey Kevin, what are you doing?
Kevin Caron: I'm here in the studio playing around with this Longevity MIG Weld 250P MIG welder. I've got the bottle on, the gas hooked up, got the wire in it. I've figured out how all the controls work. Now it's time to fire it up.
Let's make some sparks. But first let's put on some leathers, a helmet and some welding gloves. Flip the switch; let's go to the table and play.
I have here some eighth-inch steel plate out of the scrap barrel out back. I cleaned it up with the grinder and cut off a few little chunks to play with.
Since I'm just working with a piece of flat plate, I don't have any place to put my ground clamp to, so let's clip it down to the table. That way I can ground on my table, get a nice ground through to my work, don't have to mess with the clamp.
As far as setting the machine, eighth-inch plate, we'll start at about 19 amps and about 200 inches; 210 inches worth of wire feed and see what we get.
The Voice: How about pulse? Are you going to use it?
Kevin Caron: This will just be straight MIG, so the pulse features are all zeroed out - they're not going to work.
Let's set our base voltage at 20 amps, and our wire feed at about 210. Let's try it there.
Let me get my helmet and you get your helmet. Let's try a little corner joint over here and we'll see what we get. (welding)
That doesn't look too bad in there. I might have gone a little too fast right in that area. Let's flip it over and look on the back. I had a little bit of metal coming through the gap where the two pieces didn't fit quite as well as they should have.
Yep, I should have gone to the anvil and flattened that out a little bit. That's what you get for working with scrap.
There's not much in the way penetration, so I was probably a little cold. Next time I'll bump it up a little: 21, 21 and a half. Somewhere up in that area.
Let's get a thinner piece of metal; find some 16-gauge out there, and then we'll play with the pulse just a little bit and get another weld on it.
Here's my piece of 16-gauge. Let’s go ahead and just tack that; we'll weld that on and play with the pulse.
As I instructed earlier, put your base voltage down and put your pulse voltage up to what you want. That'll enable the pulse feature. Let's go with a base voltage down to about 15 volts. And we'll turn the pulse voltage up to about 17 and a half. Pulse width: ah, let's set it in the middle. Pulse frequency: set that a little higher. Let's try that.
The great thing about getting a new machine to play with is that you get to play with all the knobs, figure out how everything works.
Let me just hold this in here. Got your helmet on? Cool. There we go. (welding)
Let's change it just a little. Turn the pulse width up a little. Turn the pulse frequency up a little. And turn the voltage up just a little. Pulse voltage. Now, let's see what we get. (welding)
Oh, that's fun. Let's go with a little more wire feed. And let's turn the pulse width up a little more. We'll also turn the pulse frequency up a little more.
Nope. More wire. More wire. I'm going to find it there eventually. (welding) OK. Let me get one more piece of 16-gauge. Same gauge of metal I was just welding on. Now let's run a bead. (welding)
There's a nice little bead across the front.
This is a decent little welder. I really like it. It's a big improvement over that old Miller 251 I’ve got. I'm looking forward to playing it and learning all of its different features. I'll get a spool gun for it so I can use it on this large aluminum sculpture that I'm working on. I think it will be a good piece of equipment to have in the shop.
Now, let me get back to work. We'll see you in the next video.
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